Season 6. Episode 4. Finally, the Gelato Blog. Is There an Implied Contract?

September 28, 2026. Sibenik to Split, Croatia. 35 miles. 3,386’ climbing. 

Before riding from Šibenik, here are a few images from last night. 

Heather lost her reader glasses so had to use her sunglasses that have a reading lens attached on them, but this made it too dark, so she had to use her flashlight also. I thought it hilarious, I wondered what our waitress thought. She bought a new pair at the pharmacy the next day, and found her original pair a few days later.

Last year cycling the Camino in Spain we were told there are an infinite number of Camino’s, in that basically there’s a Camino from everywhere in Europe, from each person‘s home. But we never expected to see a Camino sign so far away. We learned there is a “Croatian Camino”, as well from Croatia all the way to Santiago de Campostella in Spain.

The old town of Sibenik has so many stairs rising from seaside up to the fortress at top. We felt really sorry for this mother carrying her child over her shoulder. Not so charming for her.

A bold claim to be the best In Europe. I normally avoid places that make such outlandish and unsubstantiated claims, but I hadn’t had any baklava since Turkey, so I was having a craving as soon as I saw the sign. I ordered 2 and I’d say the cream filled one was completely moan-worthy and merited the advertised claim, but the other did not merit, oh well, 50-50.

Seems they must have a different building code with no railing.

In the small hotels in the old city, there’s nowhere for our bikes in the hotel and they often have a storage room usually down an alley. A minor inconvenience.

We were approaching Primošten (The Old Island Village). This is a  medieval village that was once a tidal island close to land. It was protected by walls and a drawbridge. In the 16th century, after the invading Ottomans retreated, the drawbridge was replaced by a causeway to the mainland, and the town was renamed Primošten which means “to bridge”. It looks make believe!

We would soon come to Trogir, another former island now connected to the mainland in a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Both worthwhile visits. 

While changing directions from a near standstill, Heather took a tumble. Luckily the fall was at such a slow speed, and there was no injury.

On the island of Primošten, GPS sometimes fails in these narrow alleys.

Making our way by wandering we had a moment of serendipity. We found “art metal man” who creates figures we fell in love with. We wanted to buy a few of their works but they would not ship them. I’m such a “weight weenie” (cyclist term for riders who obsess too much about weight of components and in my case not taking things on tour because don’t want to carry more weight) but shockingly we bought two. Major kudos to Heather who saw how much I loved the cyclist. Once she said she would carry it (it probably weighs 2 pounds), I decided to buy the kayaker one which was about a pound.

Roadside olive oil tasting and fresh fig restocking. I’ll happily carry figs in my panniers. 

Up to this point, I’ve only had two gelatos on the trip. In Mali Losinj back on our third night I had my first Croatian ice cream experience and it started poorly on two counts. 

The shop had those little tasting spoons up on the counter, so I asked for a taste of a flavor and truth be told the tasting wasn’t that good. So I then asked for a taste of a different flavor and that’s when the vendor gave me a scowl and very directly told me that it is only one taste per customer. 

I was taken aback by this. I don’t know if it’s a personal thing or a cultural thing, but back home it’s normal to take a few tastes before deciding. I asked him again and he said no it’s one per customer. At that point, I decided (inside my head but Heather could tell when my brain clicks like this) that I’m not buying ice cream here. If it’s not so good on the taste, why am I going to allocate calories to it and stomach shelf space for it, never mind the cost? So I very politely said “I understand if that’s your policy, I’m not gonna change your policy. I understand if that’s the way you do it here. I’m sorry, I’m new to your country, and it’s my first time having ice cream here. I thought I take the taste to see if I like the ice cream and that flavor. I don’t want to get that flavor”. 

Before I could turn to walk away, he must have sensed this and he said somewhat begrudgingly you can have a second taste.

Now the second flavor wasn’t that great either, but I thought I’d better buy an ice cream now or we might have an international incident. I bought their top seller pistachio. It was very average, but it left me wondering what’s the purpose of the taste? Is there an implied contract that by tasting you’re committed to purchasing? I don’t think so. Or is it simply a tacit understanding and a matter of etiquette? Does it vary by culture? Isn’t the whole point to sample to see if you're going to buy? How many samples should you be allowed? (I look forward to reader viewpoints.)

I know at least 2 of our 3 kids (our adult children, but still call them my kids) think it’s wrong to take a taste and then not buy one. They told me as such when I did that on vacation last year. 

Anyways, maybe because of this initial experience I’d gone light on the gelato to date. In fact, in the first five days of the trip, I had eaten 11 croissants (two per day plus one from Heather that she thought might contain her allergen) but only 2 gelatos. Clearly my ratio was off.

However full credit must be given to gelato #2 yesterday which was in Vodice, just before we cycled onto Tribunj, a tiny village packed onto a miniature island that took less than 3 minutes to ride around the full perimeter.  The stone bridge connecting the island to Vodice on the mainland is only 79 feet long. 

Gelateria Amfora redeemed all of Croatia ice cream by virtue of their service (2 tastings without a frown) and the speculoos flavor was elite. FYI Biscoff is a brand name and the actual flavor is called speculoos, which is more common to call it that in Europe, whereas in the USA it’s known better as Biscoff. (Some readers may remember my special relation with Biscoff cookies, AKA Delta airline cookies, featured in Southern Tier final blog.)

The key was the crunchy top layer.

And that’s when, similar to Odysseus, my Sirens started summoning. In the next 30 hours as we approached Split and then in the city, I succumbed to 4 temptations and learned a few things. 

Pistachio cookie with cream at Dovani Gelateria in Trogir. (Another wonderful island village worth visiting.) A 5-scoops review. Amazing. I was borderline rude moaning through every spoonful. You cannot do better.

As I work on my ratio, salted caramel butter at Gelateria Al Mare after dinner in the Diocletian Palace of Split. Another 5 scoop review. Amazing. Moan moan moan. I learned with good reason why it is their top selling flavor.  And I was told that Japanese cheesecake is trending hot. Note to self to try it.

There are so many Gelaterias, it is hard to choose. I’ve made a rule for myself that I don’t buy from the places that have the gelato covered in metal tin containers. I want to see it and assess its fluffiness. 

On the next day (Sept.29) which was our rest day from cycling, after our walking tour of Split, it was time for Gelateria Pumperela. (I’d scouted them on my walk back from dinner the prior night and discussed flavors with the server. He of course remembered me as they surely don’t get many people scouting ice cream.) Two tastes taken yet I made a poor choice. Cheesecake ice cream. It was good but not great. Maybe best to leave cheesecake to just cake.

But the server at Pumperela did educate me that the other places with silver covered containers actually keeps their ice cream colder and fresher by being covered rather than open and exposed all day. He said I should consider them. I was surprised he promoted the competition - I guess he was more of an ice cream aficionado and purist than merely a self-promoter. 

I enjoyed some afternoon peace and quiet walking near the beaches on the north side of the city. Split is overwhelmed by cruise boat visitors during the day. And this is low season. I love how any rocky spot on the coast is a “beach” spot.

We enjoyed the golden hour as sun sets and seeing the city in a softer light.

After dinner, it was time for gelato at Luka Ice Cream (and artisanal pastries) that had been highly recommended to me before our trip. It was a disappointment. But overall, my croissant to gelato ratio had improved and despite 8.5 miles of walking to tour Split, I felt recharged from our rest day off the bike. 

I was also recharged by meeting up with some people dear to us from our cycling world.  

We finally met Isabel, co-owner of a company called Bike Odyssey (yes, Odyssey!). We’d spoken and emailed many times as we rode with her company in Turkey and Greece and have a trip planned with them next year. She was here leading their own trip (Venetians) through the region and she’d been generous with her advice to me helping me plan for our own adventure.

While Isabel and I planned this meeting a while ago, Heather and I learned only 5 days ago that two of the cyclists on her trip were our friends Adrian and Donna. We rode with Adrian through Australia in 2023 (on a company cutely named Ride and Seek). And then we stayed with them in Wisconsin when we rode across the Northern Tier. They were amazing hosts and they guest rode with us. When Adrian got our email last week announcing our Adriatic Odyssey, he shared they would be in the region.

Adrian is an amazing photographer on bike trips and we can now publicly give him the photo credit he deserves for the picture of the two of us cycling through Wisconsin that is on the bottom of our donation page. And we learned today he is also on the trip we’re doing next year. So excited. 

Then I asked Isabel is there anybody else on her trip that we know?

Sure enough, Seth from New York who was on our past trip was there. We had to come all the way to Split to see him again :). Great to briefly reconnect and we made plans to have dinner together in Dubrovnik.  BTW Seth routinely rides 50% faster than we do. Whenever people tell me I must be in good shape, I think of all the cyclists like Seth and many others we’ve met who regularly ride much faster. I cannot even conceive of riding at their speed. I don’t know if it’s my anatomy, past injuries, technique, condition, training or combination thereof, but would be happy to improve just 10%.

And lastly, Enrique from France who was a guide and soigneur (medical trainer/healer) on our previous trip. He was working with Isabel on this trip also. Naturally I asked for some treatment, and we had a good laugh that he’d charge me 100 euros. No treatment was had.

Although very brief, it was great to see everybody and a reminder that despite all the beautiful scenery, fascinating history and delicious food on these trips - it’s the people you meet and befriend along the way that is most special of all. A valuable reminder in the AI era. 

*          *          *

We ride to raise funds for the Christopher and Dana Reeve Foundation. They are dedicated to curing spinal cord injury and improving the quality of life of those impacted by paralysis. Thank you to so many of you who have already generously donated an amazing  total over $18,000! If you’ve not yet had a chance to support the Reeve Foundation, please consider making a gift at Heather & Mark Ride for Reeve.

© Copyright Mark Segal 2026.