Season 5. Episode 14. Just put it in a box for 3 months.

Season 5. Episode 14. Just put it in a box for 3 months.

September 10, 2025. Villafranco Del Bierzo to Sarria. 48 miles. 5,400’ climbing. 

We started out for what we knew would be one of our hardest days of elevation gain. It was gloomy weather and staring to rain. 

But before the rain could dampen our spirits, we met our youngest walker. 

Four years old, from Belgium walking for 26 days from Leon to Santiago de Compostela, which is 200 miles and then doing the “bonus” miles to Finisterra which is another 56 miles to the Atlantic. The Camino Finisterre is the only Camino starting in Santiago de Compostela and goes to what once was thought to be the “Edge of the World” where the sun went to die. Most walkers terminate in Santiago de Compostela.

Rain it is.

Visibility was zero in O Cebreiro. We couldn’t see the views but we could see the important things in life oh so clearly.

The extra weight from our waterlogged leggings, socks, soaking jacket and water in our shoes just added to the challenge. 

We were climbing so slowly that we needed both hands on the handlebars or we’d risk falling, and so we couldn’t swat away the flies that would land on our nose or in our ear and sit for long rests. We’d have to tolerate them for extended stretches.

At one point, my left leg just had nothing left to give. I couldn't put anything into it, so I was pushing pretty much with my right leg for a bit and then I just started walking. Luckily a few minutes of walking brought me back to a point where I could ride again. 

I willed myself up some wet cold climbs picturing myself lying by my fireplace at home or on a beach. I imagined being a contestant on Survivor wondering how am I gonna get through this. 

Although all us riders and walkers – pilgrims – may speak multiple languages, we all speak the language of perseverance and determination, and  of course a smile translates well into any language. Towards the end of each day we would see more people limping, or hunched under the weight of their pack. 

I stopped for a hot soup for lunch. Having learned from my experience with clenched teeth from the cold in France, I changed into a dry tee and jacket for a more comfortable afternoon. 

Over the mountain pass, the weather cleared and the last 15 miles were much nicer.

My bike was making some disturbing noises that sounded like they were from my front brakes. With all this descending, I was rather concerned even though we only had 5 days left. 

As luck would have it, as I made our last turn into the town of Sarria, there was a bike store right there. 

The mechanic Jorge spoke no English so Google Translate saved the day. He showed me my rear brake pads - they were at zero, shot. Fortunately, he had replacements for my brakes as this trip was the first one when I wasn’t carrying extra pads. We caught this in perfect time before I damaged my discs. 

I was surprised the pads were so low given the bike was checked completely before I left New York, but Jorge said it’s completely normal in the mountains to wear them more quickly. 

Wow, potential disaster averted. 

At dinner, Heather and I agreed this day was the hardest one of this trip so far. 

September 11, 2025. Sarria to Melide. 42 miles. 4,553’ climbing. 

The full French Camino is about 500 miles. To qualify for the certificate (there actually is one) for walking the Camino de Santiago, you need to walk at least 100km (62 miles) of any official Camino route. Sarria is that distance to Santiago de Compostela, so there are many fresh walkers just beginning here. You can see who is bright eyed and fresh, and who has been walking for several weeks already. 

From Sarria on, it was more crowded.

Weather again dreary.

Not a welcome sign.

The sign and narrowness of the road with cars also on it leads to Heather dismounting. And it’s no easy task walking while pushing 60 plus pounds of bike and gear up a hill.

There are Camino signs everywhere so it’s near impossible for a walker to lose the trail.

I love the Spanish bike culture that asks drivers to leave 1.5 meters when passing cyclists) France is 1 meter); and even more so it shows passing two cyclists. They expect and accept cyclists riding beside one another.

Another day of taking shelter from the rain for a hot lunch and stripping off wet layers and changing to dry clothing. Yesterday I did  this, but Heather didn’t stop to warm up, eat and change; she was so depleted she was barely able to go for dinner.

What they call an omelette- it feeds 20, sliced into pieces like cake.

Some hikers I befriended picking berries shared their fruit. It can’t be easy hiking in a full poncho for a full day up and down a mountain.

I saw several couples walking hand in hand. That’s love. I can’t even convince Heather to ride a tandem with me.

September 12, 2025. Melide to Santiago de Compostela. 41miles. 3,856’ climbing. 

Today was a beautiful ride. Sun yeah! With drier roads, I could let myself go faster on great descents. (And I had peace of mind of new rear brakes, and Jorge also checked my front ones and they were good.) 

The climbs were challenging, but sane. It was rustic. 

We got separated on either side of a cattle crossing.

Bus shelters offer retreats when needed - be that from rain, sun or wind.

Most homes have their vegetable garden beautifully cared for.

In general the bread in Spain along the Camino has been rock hard on the outside and not great. Overall a poor rating. So I was thrilled with this amazing soft bread filled with nuts and raisins. I decided to up our bread game when I return home.

Our first view of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in the distance.

After a final climb.

And a scene of many hikers who just lie down in the square.

It was great to bear witness to so many walkers complete their Camino. A minority will continue walking to Cape Finisterra, as we will continue to ride to Porto, so we are not done yet. In the moment, we wished we wrapped it up here as we saw so many hikers relieved to be done.

Heather doing her best to imitate a young woman doing a full leg extension up to her shoulder for a classic insta pose.

Along the Camino, we met so many people including from Korea (he was quick to point out South not North), Taiwan, Australia. Brazil, Canada, Mexico, the UK, France, Spain of course, Luxembourg, Belgium, Italy, Germany, Poland, Israel, Switzerland and the USA. 

In the square, we met VJ and Lisa from California who just walked the Portuguese Camino from Porto for two weeks with their 10 month old daughter. Lisa carried their daughter (20 pounds) and VJ carried the pack with their stuff. (We forgot to ask how many baby outfits and diapers they pack) 

VJ introduced us to Tom from Germany and told us he just days ago completed walking 14,000 km (8,750 miles) over 7 years. Yes, a real live Forrest Gump of the Camino. When he began, the dog was 2 years old and he told me he had one day’s growth of facial hair. He guessed the dog walked 18,000 km since it runs ahead and comes back.

Professor Tom engaged Heather with how to live for 7 years from a 25 kg backpack. My wife, who I’ve written before could teach Marie Kondo a thing or two about decluttering, has a new muse and motivation. Tom told her put everything at home you don’t think you need in a box and after 3 months if you don’t miss it you can get rid of it. Heather pledged to try this. I just fear I’m in that box!  

We all start from somewhere different, figuratively if not geographically, and we all converged here. The journey is not the churches and cathedrals nor the bridges and pathways. It’s definitely the people you meet and interact with along the way. If you pedal or walk too fast you can miss that. I am reminded life’s like that too. 

Sunset from the Cathedral square. Wish we were done but 3 days of riding to go.

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© Copyright Mark Segal 2025.