Season 5. Episode 11. Say cheese! …cake.

Season 5. Episode 11. Say cheese! …cake. 

September 1, 2025. Capbreton to Biarritz, France to San Sebastián, Spain. 61 miles. 3,194’ climbing. 

After the last few days of rain, we didn’t think we could get wetter. We were so wrong! For the first 90 minutes, it rained hard with no let up. 

In the bike lane that’s on the shoulder of the road, there is a raised barrier in some spots separating the road. While it’s very comforting to have a separation from cars, it in places trapped the water making the road slicker. In one place we had no escape from going through a significant puddle about 15 yards long. Heather said she rode through water that came up to her knees. 

We had shriveled fingers and soaked toes. When it did finally stop raining, we actually got colder. We didn’t realize the rain sort of warmed us up and when it stopped raining, we felt the wind cooly against our skin. 

It finally got sunny just as we rode over the bridge into Bayonne and we could see the top of the Gothic Cathedral sticking up over nearby rooftops and a wonderful old quarter to explore. 

And before we could explore the city, it started to pour again so we ducked into a cafe for some hot chocolate. 

I was so cold, I literally struggled to unclench my teeth.

When it slowed down from pouring to just light rain, we pressed on and tried to move fast to the clear front forecast ahead of us, and missed exploring Bayonne.

As good luck prevailed, it cleared up for us as we approached Biarritz, a beautiful city that is also a famous surfers’ destination.

It was sunny for the oceanside lunch we had planned. It felt amazing to take off out wet jackets and sense the sun warming our backs. But our feet remained waterlogged. (And would remain so all day.)

After lunch and riding forward close to the water, we needed to climb back to the main road by some switchbacks.

And just as I’m shooting a photo of Heather climbing, she starts yelling “help” as she sees she’s about to be stuck. (Zoom in to see her facial expression).

Heather has it in her head that she cannot stop on a hill, so she just lodged herself in to the barrier. 

A few hours later, we encountered another crazy steep climb. I shouted grunts out loudly as I willed myself up the incline. Three French cyclists looked aghast at me for my verbal demonstration. It was like I had defied convention, and I thought of tennis great Jimmy Connors shocking some purists with his grunting back in the 70’s before it was common in the sport.

We were now on a coastal stretch with absolutely spectacular views of the ocean. It reminded us of Big Sur on the Californian coast for beauty, but without the big drops over a cliff to fill you with fear as in California. It rivals the nicest scenery we’ve cycled by anywhere. 

However, the wind gusts blowing 33 mph off the ocean made it the most treacherous and dangerous thing we’ve ever cycled other than the bridge over Mobile Bay in Alabama in 2021. The winds were so strong, they pushed me a meter into the car lane. I was engaging my core strength so much, it felt like doing a two-minute plank exercise. I needed to use much more of my upper body to keep my bike straight and to the right side of the road. As I needed to soldier on, I thought of Ernie and Lenny for motivation.

I was ahead of Heather and knew this crosswind was not going to be good for her. I stopped and waited for what seemed like quite a while for her. Sure enough, Heather came walking around a corner  and I wish I had video to capture the fear and emotion in her voice as she frantically told me about the wind blowing her clear across her lane into the oncoming lane. She decided to walk as she had no control. She’s 40 pounds lighter than me and the wind was tossing her into danger.  

At some point we entered Spain with no sign or fanfare. Merci France, it really was the joie de vivre!

But then we got our welcome to Spain with a slope of a road that we could not ride with panniers. I felt defeated as I think it may have been the first time I had to walk up a climb that was paved. (I’ve walked up gravel.)

Then coming down on the other side, equally sloped, I had to stop literally to rest my hands which were numb from braking so hard.

Heather was not chancing this downhill that was narrow with cars passing.

After surviving our trials of the day - water then wind then steep inclines - we enjoyed the wonderful bike path along the beach into San Sebastian. 

The old town of San Sebastián is world renowned for its narrow alleys full of bars and restaurants that serve up pintxos (pronounced pin-chos) which is their take on tapas. It’s customary to sample one in a bar with a drink, and move onto the next place and repeat. People sit or stand around tables both inside and outside in the alleys.

When we shared our initial itinerary, we were told by a few people we must have cheesecake in San Sebastián. Burnt Basque cheesecake is another famous local offering. 

On our way to our first bar we passed this place serving nothing but slices of what were so highly recommended.

So first things first. After a grueling day of riding, on our empty stomachs, we had our appetizer. Delicious. As we say, to take off the edge. Thanks David and thanks Maggie for the recommendations.

Pintxos.

You know you’re in Spain when full sized hams hang over your head at the bar.

On our rest day, we enjoyed a walking tour and learning about the history of San Sebastián. One fun fact was that since the year 1615 there was a decree in Iceland that they can kill Basque fishermen because of conflicts with Spanish whalers. Our guide was a very proud Basque and found it incredulous that the law to legally kill him in Iceland was only repealed in 2015! 

As our guide explained the importance of food in Basque and especially San Sebastián culture, he shared that “Here we say I love you by saying I will cook for you, forever. We seduce with our stomachs.”

The city has 2 fantastic beaches a short walk from the old city. I did something I can’t recall doing on our bike trips before which is I lay out on the sand of Playa La Concha for an hour. I alternated napping and staring at the sea and sky while listening to one of my favorite playlists that some family members make fun of me for listening to - Both Sides Now - 51 versions of the Joni Mitchell song.  Love looking at, and contemplating clouds, while hearing “I’ve looked at clouds that way”

Cool to watch sand artist create his design.

Heather used my beach time to find her first Spanish pain au chocolate and waxed on to me about how amazing the ratio of chocolate to croissant is. I quote “This ratio is to die for.”  She said it’s better than anything in France and that our guide was right to suggest we try more than cheesecake.

From buildings to menus, it’s common to see things in 4 languages: Basque, Spanish, French, English. Great example of common sense.  And of interest how Basque and Spanish are completely different. Spanish is more similar to French. This common sense approach strikes me as I continue to read weekly of language friction and disputes that are endless in my native Montreal.

After cheesecake to start our day and some at lunch, we returned to our favorite spot at Viña for our 4th piece in 27 hours. Mind you that’s sharing so it’s really half pieces each, but I’m just trying to rationalize.

Since I just read an article about the need to eat protein to help recovery from exercise and to rebuild muscles, I figured cheese cake must be good for me since cheese is a source of protein. 

I ignored the part that you should aim to get that protein about 30 minutes to two hours after you’re done pedaling. Not to mention ignoring the other ingredients. 

San Sebastián was very restorative to us, and set us up for the harder days of climbing to come. 

© Copyright Mark Segal 2025.