Season 5. Episode 6. My pilgrimage to Saint-Malo.

Season 5. Episode 6. My pilgrimage to Saint-Malo.

August 19, 2025. Avranches to Mont Saint Michel to Saint- Malo. 46 Miles. 

August 20. Rest day or more accurately eating our way through Saint Malo.

From the botanical gardens in Avranches, we caught our first glimpse of Mont Saint Michel (MSM). Pretty big at over 7 miles away as the crow flies.

For those unfamiliar, MSM is a spectacular medieval abbey built upon a tidal island. At high tide, it is surrounded by water and was inaccessible until modern times and a bridge was built. 

It’s been a destination for religious pilgrimages for years and at low tide, pilgrims could walk across the exposed land. 

Now it’s overwhelmed by tourists, but still in my mind worthwhile to visit just to marvel at how they built this, imagining them bringing over all the materials by boat. 

Incidentally in England there is a Saint Michael’s Mount, also a tidal island, with a castle built on top. No relation other than honoring the same Saint. 

We rode through rich farmland in this very green and fertile area.

About an hour before reaching Saint-Malo, we saw litter on the side of the road for the first time. It took seeing it to realize how we had literally not seen any yet in the countryside in 5 days of riding. Major difference from the USA. The French do really take care of their environment. Or at least where we’ve been thus far. 

I was asked if we had Saint-Malo in our itinerary because of reading the book All the Light We Cannot See. I’d actually never heard of the book, so no. (I learned Heather had read it.) This historic walled city on the coast of Bretagne has loomed in my imagination since about 4th grade when studying the great European Explorers: Columbus, Magellan, Vasco da Gama, Henry Hudson. And for Canadian kids Champlain, Cabot and Cartier. The last being Jacques Cartier- the first European recognized to discover Montreal and he hailed from and sailed from Saint-Malo, France. I loved reading about all the explorers, but growing up in Montreal, Cartier held more fascination for me.  Who dares to make such expeditions? To leave their home and seek adventure and take that risk?  Visiting Saint-Malo was in some ways my pilgrimage. 

I went to the Jacques Cartier museum, we both went to his statue and also saw the stone above his entombment in the Cathedral.

Here are two of my takeaways from the museum:

In a room full of copies of maps of that time, there was a copy of a fake map created by the Spanish meant to deter other countries from exploring South America by showing scenes of cannibalism and beasts. I guess there was fake news even back then. 

The other item was a copy of the first earth globe created in 1492 that showed only the continents then known: Europe. Asia and Africa, with a vast body of water lying west of Europe and extending to Asia. There was no landmass of America. Amazing to try and reimagine the past and understand and judge it with the knowledge of their time. 

Images of Saint-Malo:

Saint-Malo seen from boat on way to Dinard.

A surprise to see so many boats on keels on land at low tide in Dinard.

A whole brioche (family loaf) for lunch in Dinard. Couldn’t resist that aroma! May need to increase the dosage of my cholesterol meds.

Although also jammed with tourists, Saint-Malo is magical to visit and wander the alleys of the old walled city or walk atop the walls. It’s got a great restaurant vibe, and so many sweets that seduce you with their aroma as you walk by. 

Making of the beignets.

Heather’s go to is donuts. It’s the size of 4 donuts at home and this is just 45 minutes before our dinner reservation.

You know a good steak is coming when the table is set with mini butcher knives.

A tough choice. And this was for both of us.

Chocolatier before breakfast!

Saint-Malo is in Bretagne (Brittany in English) and there is a distinct culture that Bretagne boasts of. They “only” became part of France in 1532.

We befriended Philippe, a local in line at the bakery and learned he is there every day. I was giving Heather a hard time about her bike being unlocked and out of our site line from inside the bakery. She asked Philippe if her bike was safe? He said yes you have nothing to worry about, “je suis le seul voleur en Saint-Malo, et je suis ici avec vous”. I’m the only thief in Saint-Malo and I’m here with you. 

Philippe shared another joke that has a sad historical truth. We marveled at the bakery line and its popularity. He told us they say when you see such a long line, it’s a sign that the food is very good, or there is a war going on.

© Copyright Mark Segal 2025.