Season 4 Episode 7. Idaho, so much more than potatoes!

Season 4. Episode 7. Idaho, so much more than potatoes!

7/29 Spokane, WA - Coeur d’Alene, ID. 44 miles. 

Spokane has a delightful, modern, clean Riverfront Park that is centered around the lower falls of the Spokane River.

It’s also right on the Centennial Trail, a wonderful paved bike path that runs to Coeur d’Alene (CDA), Idaho. There is a Sculpture Walk of 21 public pieces. 

One piece that caught our eye for its inclusivity is titled “The Joy of Running Together”. 

One of Spokane’s two milk-bottle buildings. 

Centennial Trail took us east right onto the campus of Gonzaga. We did some off trail campus touring. 

A critical question to ask of oneself in the transition from work to retirement.

The trail then followed the Spokane River for a morning of scenic views. 

Capturing Heather as she crossed the state line into Idaho - yes the pavement changes shades.

As I’ve written in prior years, typically I don’t get excited about crossing a state line. But here I was delighted for two reasons. Firstly, given the fire road closure challenge on just day 3, it felt like an accomplishment to make it through Washington. Secondly, I’d never been to Idaho and although our original plan was for only 1 stop in Sandpoint (further north) before crossing to Montana, we were going to follow Ranger John the Elder’s advice and meander a bit more out west and specifically take more time in Idaho. We could have gotten back on our original route if we went north from Spokane to Sandpoint, a long but doable day. But I knew of the Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes as one of the top paved bike trails in the country, and wanted to add it now. 

The best bike trails have stations with an array of bike tools and a floor pump available.

We rode in along Lake CDA and returned later for an incredibly delicious, lakeside dinner at the highly recommended Beverly’s. It was an enjoyable meal despite Heather suffering an allergic reaction while eating. She said “I just want you to know I’m ok.” I said “I didn’t think you were about to die. But that would be quite the blog entry.”  She knows when to ignore me. She took two Benadryl, proceeded to finish dinner, and we googled to see the hospital was only 20 minutes away (by bike!), but I told her we can take an Uber if she wants. 😉 

Luckily no medical visit was needed. 

Restaurant sign spoke to us.

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7/30 Coeur d’Alene, ID - Harrison, ID 39 miles. 2,510’ climbing. 

Fun cool fact: Our inn had the landmark distinction of having a chimney shaped like the state map.

Breakfast was at local diner institution “Jimmy’s Down the Street”, made nationally popular by Guy Fieri’s filming Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives here in 2010. 

Since Guy liked their signature pecan cinnamon rolls, I felt obligated to try one.

But with Heather’s nut allergy it was too big even for me at breakfast and ahead of our ride. So I sent half to another table as I overheard an elderly man ask his wife to share one and she said no. Truth be told it was good but not crazy good. Not as good as a Cinnabon and not as good as their biscuit which came with my eggs and was amazing and likely the best biscuit ever! Good to remember don’t buy all hype. 

Our next two days actually added “optional” miles. We could easily head east from CDA towards Missoula, MT (or just to St. Regis if we then try to head north up to Glacier National Park).  Instead, we rode south today along Lake CDA to get to Harrison for our ride tomorrow along the celebrated trail. 

Still pushing limits for a shortcut to cut out a major climb.

Shortcut was worth it despite a momentary hike.

I could see across the lake how the side of a mountain ridge was wire-fenced to keep the rocks from sliding. We rode just 20 minutes earlier along the ridge at top and now I wondered how stable all these ridges really are as I still think of Oso, WA, the town lost in the mountain slide, as well as the major slide just two months ago (!!) on Teton Pass between Idaho and Wyoming. Clearly, population growth and construction are pushing limits beyond what nature can tolerate.

Gorgeous reflections.

Our patriotic BnB.

In Harrison, I showed the girl serving ice cream a picture of me with a super tall soft serve piled high from 7 years ago at Fat Willie’s in Lake George and asked her if she could pile it that high. She replied she could try. 

Maddie - you more than tried, you nailed it. She was quite proud of her successful effort, as she should be!

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7/31 Harrison - Wallace, ID 53 miles. Only 640’ climbing. Flat!

Our entire ride today was on the paved Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes. We rode in a northeast direction towards the town of Wallace. From Harrison to Cataldo was the most stunning section. 

And then barely 12 minutes into our ride we came upon a moose on the trail.

We had no clue what to do - wait? Try to speed by? Google moose speed or moose danger?

So I did what came naturally and told Heather to go first.

As Heather rode ahead, the moose scampered into the bush. But shortly after we met a couple from Austin who cautioned us we should not be nearly that close especially if a female (no antlers) and her baby is nearby, she may attack. Who knew?

This was a flashback to Heather’s alligator posing in season 1.

Is this another risk to worry about? In my experience if they post the sign, it’s because the activity occurs.

We soon arrived and discovered a great find - Wallace, ID. The entire town is on the national Historic Register. It also had an active red light district until 1988; you can tour the Oasis Bordello where the “price sheet” is still posted. 

The town claimed to be the center of the universe - Heather is on the very spot! I should write something corny like she’s the center of my universe.

There was a store in town with amazing tee-shirts, gifts, and cards.  We were not adding souvenirs to our panniers and unfortunately they don’t sell online. Here’s 2 of the more memorable tees:

Guilty as charged.

Incredible story how 1 man saved this town!

Spokane to Coeur d’Alene

CDA to Harrison

Harrison to Walllace on the trail

Copyright Mark Segal 2024.