Season 3 Episode 3 (9/23): Long Island Sound meets Puget Sound

Season 3 Episode 3 (9/23): Long Island Sound meets Puget Sound – 

9/23 Anacortes to Fort Casey for ferry to Port Townsend, WA. 38 miles 2144’ climb

About ten miles into our ride, we crossed over the Deception Pass Bridge offering us spectacular views. The bridge (included on the National Register of Historic Places), connects Fidalgo Island to Whidbey Island, over water connecting Skagit Bay with the Strait of Juan de Fuca (all part of the Puget Sound). It required us to “take the lane” as there was no shoulder or bike lane. This means what it sounds like, that we ride in the middle of the lane like a car. It also means we feel the pressure of cars accumulating behind us. (It’s worth googling images of the bridge. We could not stop to take pics.)

But this beauty was short lived. We soon cycled along a backroad where we saw a few hundred yards of what initially looked like a roadside junkyard of abandoned vehicles (cars, trucks and RVs). But as we got closer we could see this was an encampment of sorts where people were living inside. It was so sad. On these bike adventures, we commonly go through highs and lows. It can be physical from climbing to descending. Or it can be in what we witness. This was one of these contrasts we see frequently.

Shortly afterwards, we hit the hardest winds thus far. What happened to the notion of prevailing tailwinds from the north? We cycled directly into stiff headwinds from the south. When they gusted, it felt like we came to a full stop. Poor Heather said she was just trying not to blow over. She thought it was tougher than anything  she’s cycled prior. My weighing about 35 pounds more than her is an advantage. And it had started to rain, which made it even rougher.

We made it to Port Townsend and discovered one of the best gems of a town we’ve ever biked through. Port Townsend should not be missed! Its boom days were in the late 19th century. It’s got great architecture, culture, several art galleries, preserved history and waterside charm. And it happened to be hosting a film festival.

Beautiful Victorian era buildings that I read were a result of the town’s business elite trying to build a New York of the West. Downtown is a National Historic Landmarks District

Hastings Building

I found this historical sign of great interest regarding how port cities needed a system of quarantine - And who of us would have given it nearly as much thought before our recent pandemic?

They take their recycling seriously in the Pacific Northwest compared to our local public trash bins. Feels more like Australia than New York.

Heather commented everybody looks like they just walked out of an REI clothing catalog.

We came across this small but powerful exhibit titled 22 Crosses.

22 Lives. The sign reads: “An estimated 22 veterans commit suicide every day. Each cross before you represents one of those veterans who has decided to end the pain of their personal battle with depression, post traumatic stress and other service related illnesses.” Definitely want to support our veterans more.

Then we met a veteran who was fascinating. Robin Bergstrom, owner of Bergstrom's Antique & Classic Auto, has accumulated a true one-of-a-kind collection of old autos and all things car related over the past 45 years. Walking into his shop (a former garage) is like stepping back in time. He’s the guy that movie set directors call to get a classic car or vintage sign. And on top of discovering his unique shop, when he learned we are from Larchmont, he shared that when he was in the army he was stationed in 1959-1962 on an Island off New Rochelle (next town from us). That is Davids Island that you can see from Glen Island Park, and I’ve kayaked around the island a number of times aware of its former military use, but never imagined I’d meet one of the soldiers who’d lived there to tell me about it. And that I’d need to travel to Puget Sound to get that Long Island Sound lesson.

Robin Bergstrom in his time warp of a shop.

By the water, there is a complete real 42' skeleton of a gray whale that died 4 years ago and washed ashore at nearby Port Ludlow.

The whale skeleton triggered positive memories of reading Shel Silverstein’s Melinda Mae to my daughters. (Melinda Mae is a girl who ate a whole whale.) I texted them the photo and that it reminded me of reading Shel to them. They both replied they can still recite Melinda Mae 20 years hence. This warmed my heart!

© Copyright Mark Segal 2023.