Season 2 Episode 20 (10/9-10/10): Two More States to Go! Southport, NC to Pawleys Island, SC to Mount Pleasant, SC

Season 2 Episode 20 (10/9-10/10): Two More States to Go! Southport, NC to Pawleys Island, SC to Mount Pleasant, SC – 

10/9 Southport, NC to Pawleys Island, SC. 102 miles, 996’ climbing.

We’d love to take extra credit for our first century ride (100 miles or more in a day), but truth is while it was a really long and hard day, it was not even one of our hardest days of the trip. It was remarkably flat, we enjoyed favorable temperatures and a mild breeze, and we had a super boost around the 86-mile mark.

No “South of the Border” famous tourist trap landmark, like when driving from NC to SC on I-95.

Breakfast debate was how many bite sized muffins can I eat at breakfast rationalizing they equal one normal size muffin? I think 7-8. Heather thinks 3-4.

Only in Myrtle Beach do you pass mini golf, go-karts and batting cages right next to a cemetery. Which incidentally on the other side was next to a self storage facility. Struck me as odd thinking of “storing” bodies in a cemetery next to storage.

In my mirror, I saw a U-Haul truck behind me that was getting closer to pass me. It dawned on me that I need to be extra careful because rental trucks are probably the most dangerous vehicles since the drivers are most likely not familiar with the larger dimensions. Sure enough, after it passed me, it swerved into the shoulder of the road and the bike lane. From now on, I pull over when I see a U-Haul.

At 4:40 p.m., with 84 miles done and 12 to go to our hotel, I stopped to eat an energy bar (birthday cake flavor) and we kind of agreed it was our last stop. But two miles later I saw a sign that I had to inspect further: McShakeology Milkshake Bar. I stopped suddenly and turned into the lot, leaned my bike on a tree and entered the shop. I knew Heather was not pleased with this unplanned stop. She tells me later that a random guy said to her “looks like you want to kill him” and that she agreed with him!

I was captivated by the photos of their shakes.

Malik the milkshake Michelangelo.

We met Malik who we learned is from Tunisia, and studied in Europe, then moved to Haiti and then here. Everybody has a story beyond what meets the eye.

86-mile pit stop of super fuel to complete our century ride.

Heather seemed to get over her anger with me enough to join me sipping the shake. It looked like she was enjoying it when she was licking off the jar.

Rating for the Oreo and ice cream flavor itself was good, but not best-in-class category. However, the sugar content was over the top both literally and figuratively. It reminded me of many years ago when I was sucking on raw sugar cane, cut fresh from a field in St. Kitts. The visual beauty of this milkshake art was an image to cherish.

Back on our bikes, I was amped up from this sugar injection, and raced through a bike path that was like a slalom course. It had little straightaways as the path snaked around the many palm trees, as well the path would rise and fall over the cracks from the rising tree roots. I loved it. Heather, on the other hand, hated this type of ride and would prefer being on the road even with traffic.

We dumped our bags at the hotel, and then went for an “optional” ride (isn’t the whole trip optional?) to check out Pawleys Island which was across a causeway. It was stunning even with some visible damages from Hurricane Ian.

Sunset creek-side Pawleys Island.

Some of the many long private boardwalks that run over the marsh to the creek.

A few boardwalks damaged from the hurricane were ripped up and twisted and looked like DNA helix models.

It was such a beautiful and peaceful finish to our long day.

The sunset brought about a shift as we realized how sad it was that we only had two more states and a few more weeks remaining. Funny how I recalled moments when I could not wait for this challenging odyssey to be completed. Now we were in a strong cycling groove, and I wanted it to never end.

*     *     *

10/10 Pawleys Island, SC to Mount Pleasant, SC 90 miles, 884’ climbing

We soon discovered charming historic Georgetown, SC.

Good thing they were closed as 10:10 a.m. is too early for chocolate.

The old movie theater built in 1941 now shows movies and live theater.

An hour later, we were cycling through rural, backroads of low lying country. It was not uncommon to see an old cabin with wood that no longer has stain or color, that you could imagine as Jed Clampett’s home in the Ozarks, and then right nearby see a huge, red brick stately home that would be upscale in any location.

A fire station in the middle of nowhere.

Riding on State Road 17, the shoulder consisted of 6-8” of rough road between the rumble strip on my left and the rough grass on my right. There was a steady flow of vehicles passing us, so when I came to a dead raccoon in my path I could not swerve around it. I came to a complete stop awaiting a break in traffic. My front tire was 2” before it and I was standing nearly directly above it. It was the weirdest feeling to be next to this roadkill that looked so sadly sweet and scary at the same time. It ended up being a bad day for the raccoons, we saw 3 roadside victims.

Lunch at the McClennanville diner was like being transported to a different era. We stuck out like sore thumbs in our neons and in contrast to the men at the table next to us in their hunting camouflage. Heather points out how odd it is that I substitute broccoli instead of sweet potatoes, but then order banana pudding. I feel it makes perfect sense.

The pudding was really good. But I’m comparing it to my gold standard of Magnolia Bakery in NY city. The southern version is sweeter and more cream with real banana and less cake in it. Rating is 4 out of 5 spoons.

Around 3:45 p.m Heather was so exhausted she could not keep her eyes open. Not biking exhausted, but from not sleeping very much the night prior.

She did the unthinkable for her. We stopped and she attempted a nap. Of course what happened is she couldn’t sleep, but I did.

After cycling by the incredible homes on the ocean on Isle of Palm, we crossed over to Sullivans Island.

Sullivans Island

We made it to our Warm Showers hosts Pip and Mick and their lovely home in Mount Pleasant. We bonded easily as they also have two daughters and then a son and all not much younger than ours. We just seemed to hit it off like a great couples date night. They were witty, warm, welcoming and nurturing to our weary bodies with a wonderful dinner, and breakfast with fresh homemade bread! We loved learning of their touring adventures by tandem. We hope we can return their southern hospitality and host them in the north.

With new friends Pip and Mick.

© Copyright Mark Segal 2022