Season 2 Episode 19 (10/6-10/8): Durham to Fayetteville, NC to Wilmington, NC to Southport, NC

Season 2 Episode 19 (10/6-10/8): Durham to Fayetteville, NC to Wilmington, NC to Southport, NC –

10/6 Durham, NC to Fayetteville,NC 86 miles. 2,750’ climbing.

After our encore visit to Monuts for breakfast and big hugs saying goodbye, we left on a big high. From Durham, we enjoyed about 22 miles of the paved, well-shaded American Tobacco Trail (ATT) that seemed to run in a forest. I wasn’t even phased by the guy biking on the path towards me from the opposite direction, who was bothered by my front white light (1,000 lumens) and yelled at me: “Do you really need a light, do you really need a f—king light?” Hmm, so much for genteel southerners. But even a rude a—hole may have a point, so I gave him the benefit of the doubt and turned off my front light for the remainder of the trail.

A thrill for me to pass over the Cape Fear River that triggers memories of one of the scariest movies I’ve ever seen: Cape Fear. The 1991 Version with Robert De Niro.

We would cross the river again a few times. I did not know Cape Fear dominates the Wilmington region including Cape Fear Community College.

After the calm of the ATT, we then rode with a similar serene vibe through a newly built community (by Toll Brothers) with manicured lawns. In stark contrast we then rode in the late afternoon on state road 210. Heather and I agreed that it was the most dangerous road yet. We needed to navigate going straight while cars were taking exit ramps at high speeds cutting us off from the lane. Similarly challenging, was going straight as cars merged into the road from the entrance ramps. The best way to describe it was when Heather said if our kids ever cycled a road like this, we would not want to know.

At one point in the afternoon, a pickup truck moving towards me from the opposite lane and carrying a sofa, had one of the large sofa pillows fly out of the back and land on the shoulder of my side of the road. It missed hitting me in the head and surely knocking me over by less than 40 yards. Just another of the unknown hazards I had never thought of before.

Today was definitely my strongest riding since day one. I had my mojo. I wondered was it because of being rested and 100% healed from Durham? Energized by Syd’s surprise? Or was it because of a spiritual aspect to yesterday’s services? Maybe I was lighter after all the burdens I hopefully shed on the Day of Atonement?

Staying in East Fayetteville was the first time we felt uncomfortable from a personal safety perspective. The security guard patrolling our restaurant parking lot and the armed guard inside the gas station next door (where I was buying a Subway sandwich for the next day’s lunch) were clearly there for a reason and not a great feeling. We ran-walked back to our hotel.

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10/7 Fayetteville, NC to Wilmington, NC. 90 miles, 673’ climbing.

Today’s ride reminded us of last year in a few ways. First was we started riding shortly after sunrise, straight east for the first time. Last year pretty much every day was into the sun low in front of us. 

We forgot how the glare means cars behind us cannot easily see us. Scary to consider that.

The other way it reminded us of last year was it was the first day I ran out of water. I was drinking more as it was getting warmer, and there was such great distance between stops. For the past 4 weeks we never carried more than 2 bottles because we’d always be at a place to refill or buy. Today wasn’t the case. And just in time we came to Kelly’s General Store which felt like we were in a different era. The people working there and other customers were the kindest people. Rural America in general is kinder to us than urban America.

Kelly General Store felt like a time warp.

After Durham, it was nice to be in rural farmland again.

Though farmland came with a new sensation I could have gone without. A large truck clearly transporting livestock sped by us, and then I felt shrouded in the odor of the animals it contained.

We rode through forests of various sized pine trees that we could make out different acres planted at different times by their heights. I started practicing “being present” by focusing on actual pine needles or blades of grass to distinguish from riding past a green blur.

Outdoor wedding vows renewal in Wilmington.

I freaked Heather out telling her I was going to have some of the wedding snacks. After 30 years of marriage she’s still never sure when I’m joking. I WAS kidding.

Walked around Historic District of Wilmington. Hanover County Courthouse from 1892.

We enjoyed waking around the Historic District, the Brooklyn Arts District and the Wilmington Riverwalk. Overall a fun area and definitely worth visiting. We also had a warm welcome at the local temple for a Friday night service for Ukraine. And wouldn’t you know it, one member gave a presentation about his cycling trip through Poland. At the refreshments afterward, we were warmly engaged in several conversations with curious well-wishers and stayed much longer than originally expected.

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10/8 Wilmington, NC to Southport, NC. 28 miles.

Ahhhh a morning to lay in bed, read the paper and relax. I needed that. Of course, Heather went for a two-hour walk.

We enjoyed a leisurely ride passing through Carolina (above) and Kure Beaches.

And luckily, as we passed Squigley’s Ice Cream, I recalled my research and its place as a top spot, so we went back to it. We certainly didn’t earn the treat with today’s short ride. But we did earn it with 176 miles in the last two days, and after all the rains in Virginia it was finally warm and summery again to indulge in cold treats.

With their Squigley Machine, they rank 8 in top 17 in America.

I’d say they deserve it!  Note I’m not that much of a glutton! One of them is Heather’s.

My blend was cinnamon bun, Oreo and pumpkin pie. As the counter girl told me, it’s like eating Thanksgiving. It was creamy, with a dusty texture of the Oreo. Had it been later in the day with more miles accomplished that day, I’d have had a second!

Got to love their “I’ve been squiggled” sticker they place on you which brilliantly converts you into a walking billboard for them.

Departing Kure Beach from Fort Fisher by ferry to Southport.

On the ferry.

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