DAYS 35 & 36: 10/24 Baton Rouge, LA to New Orleans, LA; 10/25 “rest” day in NOLA

Day 35 10/24 Baton Rouge, LA 102 miles to New Orleans, LA; Day 36 10/25 “rest” day in NOLA –

We knew we had an ambitious day of 95 miles planned from Baton Rouge to New Orleans (NOLA) but were excited for the rest day in NOLA, so figured we’d go for it. We also knew it was mostly flat terrain so should be doable. We had no clue today would be the most miserable day of our journey!

It started even before leaving our hotel room when seeing that Heather had a flat front tire. Clearly an issue with the tube or tire, or both. I thoroughly checked the tire and seeing no issues, I changed the tube in the lobby. We left after this 40 minute delay.

We added a few miles and time by heading over to the LSU campus for a quick ride through and to check out Mike the Tiger, their live tiger mascot. Mike was hiding, and we didn’t even get a sighting. 

Cannot even see Mike!

Riding to NOLA, we could choose the more direct route of mostly highway 61, with its shoulder littered with debris, or the longer, more scenic route hugging the Mississippi River. We headed to the more scenic path and it was there that Heather reported a second flat of the day. 

Second flat change of the day

Now seriously losing time and with barely 20 miles done before noon, we headed back to highway 61 for the direct route. Once on 61, it started to pour. I stopped to put on my rain jacket. Heather did not, and went ahead saying to me that she knows I’ll catch her. I started riding my fastest given the conditions to indeed catch up, and couldn’t catch her or believe she was so far ahead. I then got a call from her that she had yet another flat, this time a nail was embedded in her tire from a piece of wood she rode over. 

Heather nailed her tire

I replied “I’ll be there soon, am on my way towards you”, and then rode even faster and still couldn’t believe I hadn’t caught her. I called her to determine where she was. We now figured out I’m ahead of her. She knew that, but I had no clue! Shortly after I had stopped earlier to put on my jacket, she “pulled over” to do the same. But she pulled off the road out of my riding sight line, and in that very minute I passed her and was now riding in front. She saw me so assumed I saw her. So from the time she first called me and I was about 1.5 miles ahead of her, I was now 4 miles ahead. Going back meant an extra 8 miles for the day. I was ready to boil over in anger. Not because of the flat, but because as I raised my voice to explain to her, she had committed the ultimate infraction of hiking together so therefore biking together: she “left the trail”. I told her I needed a minute to compose myself, and would call her back. That was smart of me to recognize I was about to lose it. 

We spoke again a minute later and I said I’d cross over to the other side of the highway and ride back to her, but she should start walking towards a safe pull out so I’m not changing her tire in the shoulder of this busy highway. During her walk, a car pulled over with young parents Krystal and Jake and their 3 young kids. Krystal saw Heather’s pink sleeves and said to Jake there’s a woman walking on this highway where it’s not safe, we need to help her. They offered to drive her to a town. So Heather called me and I told her to take a ride to a spot I had passed when I was riding in the right direction. I would cross back over to ride there and meet her. They dropped her off there and Krystal gave Heather her phone number to call again if any emergency.

The family who picked up Heather

I met Heather and it was shall we say tense! We discussed Heather just taking an Uber to NOLA to a bike shop and me riding. We were running out of daylight. I decided to change her tube and as this was now the third of the day, I was not shy about my feelings. 

One very unhappy camper

We decided since it was a short distance to the scenic route, and less debris for Heather to dodge riding, to head back there. We got there and Heather’s tire was flat. I may have married for better or worse, and in sickness, etc., but certainly not for 4 flat changes in a day. Heather was so frustrated at not being able to control or solve this situation, she was closer to tears than yesterday when we had no hotel. I told her to call Krystal who was in the nearby town and who gave her cell for this type of reason. Heather resisted. We debated. I lost. She ordered an Uber and Hani the driver called Heather to verify our very odd location and that he’d be there in 20 minutes. We were in a marginally sketchy area. Heather told me to go ahead. I said I cannot until she is safely in the car. We debated on this. I insisted and stayed. Ten minutes later either Hani cancelled or Heather accidentally did, so she now had no ride and we lost that daylight time. I was now adamant she call Krystal or give me the number and I will and I’ll offer her the same amount as the Uber or ask if she knows anybody who would like to earn that. Heather finally came to her senses and called. The family was 25 minutes away going in the other direction towards Baton Rouge. They discussed it and decided to come get her and drive her to NOLA for what would be a 3 hour round trip detour. They even called after a few minutes to see if they should stop at Walmart to buy a bike rack to be able to take me as well. I said no thank you, I needed to ride to feel I was not “cheating”, but more importantly I needed it as therapy to clear my head and to move past the events of the last few hours. I waited until they got there and then just after 6pm rode off with 45 miles to go, an estimated 3.5 hours of riding. While I wasn’t really all that concerned about riding in the dark near cars, as I was well lit, Krystal freaked me out a bit saying that I needed to be careful for my personal safety as NOLA was dangerous. 

I got to enjoy about 30 minutes of riding on the Mississippi River Trail (MRT) up on the levee before tons of small flies started to hit me. It was so bad I thought at first it was rain. 

As it got completely dark, I got quite nervous realizing how isolated and therefore vulnerable I was to either crime or if I fell. 

So I headed back to highway 61 and rode like a madman for 3 hours, dodging debris in the shoulder, passing oil and gas plants and terminals, then past the airport. At that point I pictured myself at home riding, loaded with gear, by JFK at night, and asked why am I doing this instead of dining in NOLA with Heather? What was I trying to prove to myself?  And I knew some of the answers. But did I know all of them? 

I eventually arrived at the hotel after 102 miles of riding. I was thrilled I chose to ride, and while my mind felt way better and cleared, my rear end did not. The issue wasn’t saddle soreness in the sense of sitting too long. My sit bones were always fine. It was the ongoing unhealed skin issue since the end of our first week which was more from heat, sweat, and very long days of skin not breathing. It never recovered fully from early in our trip, and today aggravated it in a major way. The near 15 hours in bike shorts, in the heat and humidity and the actual century ride left me in miserable condition.  

Heather and I went for a late dinner that was adequate and we were grateful to be safe. I filled her in on details from my ride and she told me all about Krystal’s family. Tomorrow would be a new day to explore NOLA and attempt to resolve her bike issue. I had a delicious pecan pie for dessert. Heather was full, but at my urging ordered creme brûlée agreeing that I would share it with her. I was perfectly aware I was using sugar as comfort food. Heather finished the creme brûlée forgetting to share my half. Kind of summed up my day. 

After a full night’s sleep and my leisurely morning in bed (while Heather did laundry), we headed to the must experience of beignets at Cafe du Monde. Beignet is clever usage of French to market fried dough with an insane heaping of icing sugar. I savored every bite. They come in bags of three, but I luckily had a bonus 4th that I offered to share with Heather, but then conveniently forgot to do so. We each had a bag of sugar left. Heather’s in clumps that I proceeded to eat. 

Heather enjoying beignets covered in confectionery (icing) sugar 

We left with an unhealthy sugar high and my black shorts a mess, dusted with white powdered sugar. 

We loved waking around the French Quarter, particularly Jackson Square. It was my first time in NOLA and reminded me of how much I love Paris, the one city I’ve been to more times than anywhere else I’ve traveled. 

We got Heather’s bike taken care of. Larry, the shop owner, advised even though he could not see or feel anything sharp in the tire, even with his special microfiber cloth, there must be something sharp lodged in the tire that only comes out to cut the tube when it’s inflated and under pressure. We replaced the tire with the foldable spare we carried. I suggested to Heather we buy another spare, she thought no need. 

We finally got to explore and walked around Magazine Street, Audubon Park, St. Charles and Tulane University. 

Back in the French Quarter, we treated ourselves to an extraordinary dinner at GW Fins. I judge a restaurant by the bread they serve to begin and their hot biscuits were a great sign of what was to come. The sweet potatoes with vanilla bourbon were beyond delicious and the best was last. 

Amazing dinner at GW Fins

I ordered dessert of a Pretzel crusted, banana and salted caramel ice cream pie, and Heather said she’ll have only two bites. She then became a near 50% partner. Damn, I should have played the old “I think there are nuts in the crust” routine (she’s allergic) to have kept her away. It was heavenly, and I was completely recharged after 24 hours of NOLA food therapy. 

Salty Malty Ice Cream Pie

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